We all want to get the best possible deal when it comes to spending our hard-earned money on home remodeling upgrades. However, there are some items that fall in the “never bargain shop” category. A new roof ranks high on that list. 😉
How Much Does a New Roof Cost?
A new asphalt shingles roof for a typical 2,000 to 2,200 square foot single-family house can range in price from $10,000 to $19,800 fully installed, including the tear off and disposal of the old roof (up to two layers). The pricing can range greatly depending on the choice of contractor, roof size and difficulty, and local real estate market conditions.
Asphalt Shingles
$8,500 Average Cost |
Metal Roof
$15,500 Average Cost |
Flat Roof Membrane
$11,500 Average Cost |
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Average Price Per Square Foot Across the US, a typical architectural asphalt shingle roof will cost between $5.00 and $7.00 per sq. ft. to install, depending on the brand and type of shingles, and project specifics variables. — This pricing range normally includes all the necessary materials and supplies, tear off and disposal of the old roof (up to two layers), dumpster and disposal fees, site plans and building permits required by the local building departments, professional installation, and a comprehensive contractor’s workmanship warranty.
In the high cost of living areas like San Francisco Bay area, San Jose, Los Angeles, San Diego, Portland, Seattle, Portland, Boston, NYC, the greater Washington DC, and Northern Virginia, homeowners can expect to pay between $6.00 and $9.00 per sq. ft. to replace a roof on a typical 2,000-2,200 square foot house with mid-range architectural shingles like GAF Timberline or OC Duration. — This range does exceed the national average figures due to the disproportionately higher cost of living in expensive coastal cities compared to American heartland.
Note: The actual estimates homeowners receive can vary widely, depending on the location of the property (local real estate market), roof’s overall complexity, and the type of system you choose to install. Quotes can also vary greatly from contractor to contractor in the same area, which is why it’s so important to get several professional estimates.
Did you know? The average house size in America is roughly 2,200 square feet, with older homes usually being smaller in size and measuring between 1,500 Sq.Ft. to 2,000 Sq.Ft., on average. Newer built homes are typically larger in size, measuring between 2,400 Sq.Ft. and 2,600 Sq.Ft., on average.
However, the actual size of the roof surface can vary depending on how many levels or stories there are, the slope and type of the roof shape, and complexity of its architectural design (think a simple gable roof vs. a more complex hip and gable roof shape with dormers and valleys).
Varying factors that can affect your cost are the brand and type of shingles; the type of underlayment; roof slope; complexity of the job; the company installing the roof, and local real estate values.
Average Total Cost of Replacement on a 2,000-2,200 Square Foot House:
3-Tab Asphalt Shingles: $10,000 to $12,500
30-year Shingles: $10,500 to $19,800
50-year (Thicker) Premium Shingles: $11,500 to $20,500
EPDM Rubber Membrane: $10,500 to $17,500
TPO or PVC Membrane: $11,500 to $20,500
Wood Shingles: $15,500 to $27,500
Steel Shingles: $15,500 to $27,500
Aluminum Shingles: $16,500 to $29,500
Standing Seam: $18,500 to $31,500
Natural Slate: $25,000 to $50,500
Concrete Tiles: $25,000 to $40,500
Clay Tiles: $25,000 to $45,500
Metal
Flat
$15,500
$11,500
* These are approximate total job prices based on the national average. Costs may vary depending on your region and home’s location, the roof’s slope and number of stories, overall complexity of the roof, the number of layers of old shingles to be removed and disposed of the type of roofing underlayment (15 or 30 lbs. felt, and/or synthetic underlayment and whether it’s breathable or non-breathable), roof accessories (like snowguards, solar vents or ridge vent) used, and any workmanship warranties or guarantees the contractor offers.
Getting a roof replacement is expensive. Seeing the total price of getting it done properly can cause a justifiable sticker shock. However, when homeowners have a better understanding of where the money is going and how they will save money in the long run, it’s easier to see a quality roof as the investment it truly is.
Having a roof over your home is a basic, essential need. Yet, when the time comes to have a new roof installed, a typical homeowner will either pay too much by going through a local home improvement store like Lowe’s or Home Depot, which by the way does not necessarily guarantee quality, or inadvertently, opt for a low-quality roof by hiring a contractor with the lowest bid.
Average New Roof Cost:
Low-End
$8,500
Mid-Range
$12,500
High-End
$14,500
|
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Beyond the Basics
Many homeowners make these often-poor choices, because they don’t really understand the importance of a good roof in the first place, as they lack general roofing knowledge, as well as fear getting ripped off, often justifiably so.
This guide will give you the knowledge necessary to hire a reputable contractor and get the best roof for your money.
Importance of a Quality Roof
Before getting into the actual roof prices, it’s essential to establish the importance of a properly installed high-quality roof. A roof does more than keep the rain off your head. It protects your biggest investment – your home.
What you should expect from a high-quality roof:
Durability – Sufficiently long lifespan; stands up to high winds, heavy rain, snow, and hail; less maintenance; few replacements.
Protection – doesn’t leak; protects the inside and outside of the structure; provides proper drainage; keeps family safe during extreme weather.
Efficiency – proper ventilation and insulation of the attic space; saves energy; lowers heating and cooling bills; helps HVAC equipment last longer; helps prevent ice dams, can offer possible local energy efficiency rebates.
Increased Home Value – If you’re planning to resell your home, it will be worth more with a high-quality roof.
What you can expect from a low-quality roof:
Unreliable – vulnerable to premature leaks; can’t stand up to pressure from snow; peels off in high winds.
Quite Temporary – short lifespan; deteriorates at a faster rate; high maintenance and unnecessary repair costs.
High Energy Costs – improper ventilation and insulation decrease energy efficiency; high energy bills; heating and cooling unit must work harder.
Potentially Dangerous – Low quality materials combined with improper ventilation can be a fire hazard and cause mold issues.
Consider the following examples: One of the most popular residential roofing materials is the basic 3-tab asphalt shingles, because they have the lowest up-front cost.
However, 3-tab shingles are rather thin and can fail when exposed to strong winds or rapidly changing temperatures. As a result, 3-tab shingles will normally last less than dimensional or architectural shingles.
Thus, although you may pay less up front, frequent roof replacements can make the least-costly option more expensive over time.
Metal roofs do have a higher initial price tag, but a durable and energy-efficient metal roof will help you save money in the long run.
Many residential metal roofs are offered with a lifetime warranty, are surprisingly energy efficient, and require little to no maintenance. Plus, they come in a variety of styles and colors to match anyone’s taste and local flair.
When weighing the price of a new roof against the value received, homeowners need to look beyond the upfront cost, and consider long term savings and added benefits a quality roof can provide.
Remember, lower price doesn’t always mean less expensive
Choosing a Trustworthy Roofer
Unless you personally know a contractor, the thought of finding a reputable company can be overwhelming, to say the least. Between horror stories of people getting blatantly ripped off, the fly-by-night crews and storm chasing contractors, it can be hard to know who you can trust.
Use these steps to find a reputable roofer:
1. Ask friends and family for recommendations.
— If your friends and family don’t know any good contractors they can recommend, then do some online research to identify top local contractors that seem transparent and have solid reviews across different sources.
2. Once you have a list of prospects, call them, and ask these questions:
- Do they take on projects of your size? This one will almost always be a Yes, but it is a good starting point to get the contractor’s interest and attention
- Can they supply a list of previous clients as references?
- Are they willing to provide financial references from banks and suppliers?
- How many other projects will they be working on while doing your roof?
- Will they be using subcontractors? If so, how long have they worked with them?
This information will tell you how reliable they are, how much attention they’ll give to your project and how smoothly the work will go.
3. From your phone conversations, choose three to four contractors to come to your home for estimates. Don’t go on personality alone! Be sure to check their reputation with their past clients and/or BBB, rip off report, Angie’s List if you have it, etc.
4. Follow up on the information you’ve gathered. Call their clients to see if they are satisfied with the work and service they’ve received.
5. When prospective contractors visit your home, they should inspect the roof, along with the attic insulation and ventilation system in place. If you have a rather complex roof, they may ask to see the blueprints if you have them, which can help with the measurements and ordering of materials.
When discussing your needs, make sure they fully understand your expectations in terms of the new roof including making sure that your new roof will be properly ventilated, debris removed, and that your house and landscaping will be properly protected if the old roof needs to be removed.
Make sure that you fully understand the product benefits, and warranty details for materials and labor. The contractor should be eager to answer any questions you may have, as well as have questions and suggestions for you.
You will also want to make sure that the company has all the necessary roofer’s liability and worker’s comp insurance, and that they will be getting a permit for the job. You may also want to check their contractor’s license if it’s required in your state.
6. To accurately compare bids, ask for a breakdown of the contractors’ estimates. The estimate should include cost of materials, labor, other expenses and overhead, and profit margin. Remember if companies aren’t making profits, they won’t be around to cover your warranty.
— Note that many professional estimates will not itemize or show the contractor’s profit margin and/or list their overhead expenses.
However, the estimate should specify the brand and type of roofing material being installed, type of underlayment, Ice-and-Water moisture barrier for roof edges and valleys, deck repair provisions (how deck repairs are handled, flashing work to be done, removal and disposal of the old roof (if agreed upon), and accessories such as snowguards, vents, etc.
7. Throw out the low-ball bid. If an offer seems too good to be true, it probably is.
8. Go with your gut. You must be comfortable with not only their ability to do the work, but also how you feel around them. Trust is a major factor when hiring a contractor. They’ll be at your home for several days; you need to feel comfortable talking to them; as well as get a sense that they are being fair and honest, especially if unexpected issues arise during project.
Tip: You do not want to do business with a contractor who seems pushy and impatient with your questions.
More on the Importance of Hiring a Reputable Contractor
It can be very tempting to go with the crew offering to save you money on such a large investment. However, when you choose a company based purely on the lowest bid, it will likely cost you more in the long run.
What you can expect from a disreputable roofer:
- They are likely to cut corners to save time on installation at your expense.
- They are likely to use low quality materials.
- They don’t necessarily adhere to the building codes.
- They often hire uninsured, illegal immigrant workers.
- They go through a job too quickly, thereby not doing quality work.
- They’re often not properly insured.
- They’re usually not licensed, if licensing is required in your state.
Your roof will only likely look good for a short time. When you start having problems with your roof, and you will probably have problems, they won’t be around to uphold your warranty.
Of course, hiring someone who is skilled in his trade and takes pride in his work will cost more than a fly-by-night organization. But you get what you pay for.
What you can expect from a reputable roofer:
- Honest contractors understand their services are often needed when people are unprepared and can least afford it.
- They will work out a financial plan that works for you or have a list of reputable lenders.
- A reputable company will sit down with you, listen to your concerns, your financial limitations, and your needs.
- A good roofer will do everything they can to give you the best roof and roofing design including ventilation and flashing details available.
- If something happens to your roof, they will be there to fix it. – Their reputation is more important to them than a “few extra dollars” they may earn in the short term.
- Reputable roofers understand that sometimes clients truly just need a roof over their head and can’t afford the best roof on the market. In these cases they will work with you to give you the best value engineered roof you can afford.
How Contractors Determine the Price of a Roof Replacement
After inspecting the roof and speaking with homeowner, a contractor will draw up an estimate for the project. Estimating takes several important factors into consideration including materials, complexity of the job and the amount of time needed to complete the job.
Typical Breakdown of Factors:
Roof Size – Roofs with steeper slope have a larger surface area than roofs with less slant.
Roof Slope – Steeper sloped roofs are more dangerous and more difficult to work on than flat roofs.
Roof Complexity – A roof with more level changes, hips and valleys, and add-ons, such as dormers, will be more expensive than a simple roof.
Existing Layers – It’s sometimes possible to install over existing shingles, but this lowers the lifespan and can cancel the warranty. It’s better to do a complete replacement. The more layers that must be removed will increase the price.
Debris and Waste Removal – Asphalt shingles, the most common material used, are considered hazardous waste, and must be disposed of properly.
Materials – The type of new material that will be installed, such as asphalt shingles, steel shingles, slate shingles, etc.
Building Materials – This covers all other materials needed to replace a roof including boards and plywood for the roof deck, nails, drop cloths, tarps, staples, calk, etc.
Roof Underlayment and Accessories – Underlayment and accessories are part of a system that makes the roof complete and watertight.
Underlayment can be a simple 30lb felt or tar paper. There are also more advanced roof deck protection options such as breathable synthetic underlayment and/or Ice-and-water shield that protects sensitive and leak-prone areas of the roof such eaves and valleys. Accessories include vent pipe boots, snowguards, and flashing materials.
Ventilation – Ventilation is very important for expanding the lifespan of a roof, increasing its energy efficiency and meeting building code requirements in some areas.
Metal
Flat
$15,500
$11,500
Did you know? Ventilation is one of the main areas where corners are often being cut by less reputable contractors. This extends to not properly checking the soffit vents to make sure they are not blocked before installing a ridge vent. Soffit vents and ridge vents work in unison. Both are needed for a properly functioning and long-lasting roof.
* Make sure anyone you hire obtains all the required building permits and that the updated/upgraded roof will meet all local building code requirements. Ideally, the job should be inspected upon completion by the local building code inspector to make sure that nothing is amiss.
Labor Costs – Installation/labor costs will vary depending on the size and complexity of the job, the workers’ experience and how long the project will take.
Overhead Costs – This covers the basic costs of doing business (insurance, advertising, taxes, permits, office space, equipment, trucks, office supplies, office staff, etc.).
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Key Things to Watch Out for When Getting a New Roof
When getting a new roof, there are several things to watch out for to ensure that the process goes smoothly and the final result is of good quality.
- Hiring a reputable and experienced contractor: Make sure to research and choose a roofing contractor with a good reputation and plenty of experience in the industry and specific product or system you would like to install. Look for reviews and ask for references.
- Checking for proper licensing and insurance: Make sure the roofing contractor has the proper licensing and insurance to protect both you and their workers in case of any accidents or damage.
- Understanding the materials being used: It’s important to understand the materials being used for your new roof, their quality, durability, and how different options may impact cost. Ask your contractor for options and make an informed decision.
- If you live in an area that frequently experiences severe weather such as strong winds, hail, freezing temperatures (or rapid temperature changes), you will want to make sure that an appropriate roofing system is being installed using proper installation methods, such as high wind nailing pattern for architectural shingles installed in a high wind area.
- Getting a detailed written estimate: Make sure to get a detailed written estimate from your contractor that outlines all of the costs involved, including any additional expenses that may arise during the project. For example, if it turns out the roof deck requires extensive repairs after the tear off is completed, you will want to make sure the pricing to install/replace any wooden boards or plywood sheathing (and their type) is clear and fair.
- Paying attention to ventilation and insulation: Proper ventilation and insulation are essential for a long-lasting roof, so make sure your contractor includes these aspects in the project plan.
- Knowing the timeline: Make sure to discuss the timeline for the project with your contractor and ensure that they have a plan for completing the work in a timely manner.
- Making sure your home and yard/plants will be protected: A high quality installer will make sure your home and yard are treated with respect and care, which includes daily clean-up of any loose nails and debris to the extent it’s possible, and protecting your home and plants from damage by falling debris, and/or water damage (such as when the roof is exposed and it starts raining suddenly).
- Checking for warranties: Make sure your roofing contractor offers warranties for their work and the materials used, so you are protected in case of any materials or workmanship defects or issues that may arise after the installation.
- If the roofing contractor sold you on an extended product warranty from a manufacturer, the contractor should apply for the extended warranty on your behalf. No application means no extended warranty from a manufacturer.
- Installing new roof flashing whenever possible: When an old rood is being torn off, the metal flashing along dormers, chimneys, valleys, and skylights is often damaged and should, ideally, be fully replaced rather than re-used. Sometimes an old flashing can be reusable but proper care must be taken to ensure the flashing is still in good shape.
- Installing shingles in the appropriate temperature: Roof shingles should only be installed when outside temperatures allow for proper tar strip sealing of shingles (typically above 45 degrees Fahrenheit), so the shingles can adhere to each other. If it’s too cold out and shingles fail to adhere the shingles will like get blown off by strong winds.
FAQs
Here are some frequently asked questions and answers about new roof installation:
- How long does it take to install a new roof?
The time it takes to install a new roof depends on several factors, such as the size of the roof, the complexity of the design, and the materials being used. A standard-sized roof with asphalt shingles can take anywhere from a few days to a week to complete.
- What type of roofing material should I choose?
The best roofing material for your home depends on several factors, such as your budget, the climate in your area, and the design of your home. Common roofing materials include asphalt shingles, metal roofing, tile, and slate. That said, most homeowners typically choose architectural asphalt shingles to protect their homes. For example, architectural shingles such as Timberline from GAF, TruDefinition Duration Shingles from Owens Corning, and Landmark shingles from CertainTeed are considered good value options for the money. These popular midrange dimensional shingles should work well for most homes, both aesthetically and performance-wise.
- How do I pick the right color for a new roof?
Selecting the right color for a new roof comes down to three things: The color of siding and trim of your home, roof shape and height (presence of dormers), and surrounding environment (homes, trees, waterfront, etc.). Your aesthetic and visual preferences for what makes ideal curb appeal also play an important role. The good news is that most roofing manufacturers offer a wide range of standard and premium colors to accommodate the many different tastes and architectural requirements for design and roof color.
- Can I install a new roof over my old one?
In some cases, it is possible to install a new roof over an old one when you have only one existing layer of roofing, but it is not always recommended, especially if there is suspected roof deck damage or missing Water and Ice barrier at the eaves (in colder climates). It is important to consult with a roofing professional to determine if this option is feasible for your specific situation.
- How often should I replace my roof?
The lifespan of a roof depends on several factors, such as the quality of the materials used, the climate in your area, and the maintenance it receives. On average, a well-maintained asphalt shingles roof can last between 15-30 years.
- What are the signs I will need a new roof soon?
Many missing (or lifted by wind), cracked, and cupping or curling shingles are the top signs that your shingles need to be replaced soon. A significant hail or wind damage resulting in large sections of hail-damaged or blown-away shingles will typically require a complete replacement. Note that having many missing or blown away shingles can be a sign that your shingles have not been installed (likely failure to seal) properly. Major moss growth and algae stains can also be a sign the old roof needs to be replaced soon.
- Do I need to do anything to prepare for a roof installation?
Before the installation process begins, it is important to clear the area around your home and move any valuables or fragile items to a safe location. Make sure the contractor obtains a proper building permit before the work starts. Sometimes, you may also want to inform your neighbors about the upcoming construction work.
- Will my roof installation be covered by insurance?
Whether or not your roof installation is covered by insurance depends on your specific policy and the cause of the damage. It is important to review your policy and speak with your insurance provider to determine your coverage.
- What type of warranty should I expect for my new roof?
Most roofing contractors offer a warranty on their workmanship, which covers any defects or issues with the installation process. Additionally, the manufacturer of the roofing material may offer a warranty on the product itself. It is important to review and understand the warranty before the installation process begins.
Hello Josh,
Have a one story rambler with 1500 sq ft. attached 500 square foot garage, one layer of shingles, torch down gutter (California style) in Seattle, WA.
Current roof 22 years old, repairing gutters would cost enough apparently to recommend replacing the roof at same time as replacing the gutters with standard aluminum gutters and downspouts.
The estimates I have range from $21,500 to $24,500. I was asking for a 2nd bathroom vent so each would have it’s own. Convert from multiple vents to ridge vents. Not the highest but higher quality shingles like CertainTeed Northgate with SBS or CertainTeed Landmark.
Gutter portions seems to be about $2,000 to $3,000 of each estimate. We do have a chimney, no skylights, expecting to replace 3 or 4 sheets of plywood.
Without gutter issues, the roof is good for another 4 years or so. Roof pitch not steep, easy walk on. Gabled roof.
Are these estimated in line with regular prices currently? Current roof was around $9K when going from shakes and tar paper to plywood and composite shingles, redo torch down gutters. Thank your for your time.
Hi Alex,
This is a rather simple roof, considering this is a gable roof with only one layer of shingles on a single story house. This is just about as easy a roof replacement as it gets. We are talking about a one or two day job at most!
Estimated roof size including the attached garage is 2,300 square feet. Let’s be generous and assume a total roof size of 2,500 sq.ft. or 25 squares.
This job should be priced between $15,000 and $18,750 for the new roof.
Given how easy of a roof replacement project this is, my take is that this job should be priced closer to $15K rather than $20K quotes you’ve received so far. I would recommend getting more estimates and asking for a discount.
Quick note on the roof vents. Ridge vents only make sense if there are soffit vents in place (that aren’t blocked by insulation).
Good luck and let us know what you end up doing.
Hello Josh,
I received an estimate from Erie roofing company to replace my existing roof with new architectural asphalt shingles. It’s 2,500 sq. ft. with two gables and two dormers.
The quote is to remove the existing shingles, replace any damaged sheeting, install all required accessories and install Cambridge architectural shingles, I received an estimate of $29,780. That’s about $12.00 a square foot. I live in a small town in Northwest Indiana not a high priced area like San Francisco. Am I being taken advantage of?
Hi Dan,
Yes, this is a ridiculously high estimate for what sounds like a pretty standard replacement project to install new Cambridge architectural shingles from IKO (which by the way, is one brand that is infamous for having shingles that may not adhere too well), with the removal and disposal of the existing roof (assuming two layers), any necessary deck repair, new flashing around dormers and valleys, etc. There is nothing that says this is an extraordinarily-difficult roof and whatnot.
Given your location with moderate real estate values, I would normally expect total project pricing that is somewhere between $12,500 and $20,000 for a 2,500 sq. ft. roof (25 squares), depending on the type and brand of shingles, underlayment and ice and water shingles, roof height and job complexity, etc.
You should consider getting several more quotes from local installers.
My home is 21 years old. It’s a single story house with 8 skylights.
What would be an average cost for asphalt shingles?
Is metal reasonable with all the skylights?
Should the skylights be replaced with new ones?
Hi Christin,
So, a 21 year old house means that there is likely only one layer of roofing shingles, meaning you can save money by installing a second layer of shingles over-top rather than removing and disposing of the existing layer of shingles. We are talking about savings of $3,000 to $4,000, assuming a 2,000 square feet roof size. That said, some manufacturers of roofing products DO require stripping off the old roof to the deck and installing all the necessary components like Ice & Water shield, etc. in order to uphold the product warranty.
With 8 skylights, though, it’s recommended to tear off the old roof so you can install proper flashing around skylights, which is easier to do once the old roof is removed.
The skylights should be inspected for leaks and proper sealing. It’s a lot cheaper to replace a leaky skylight when the old roof is removed.
Regardless, proper flashing around each skylight will cost an additional $300 with shingles and $500 if you go with metal roofing. So, it will cost 8 * $300 = $2,400 extra to reflash around the old skylights when going with shingles or 8 * $500 = $4,000 when going with metal.
The cost of a new roof itself would depend on your local real estate market, but assuming a $5.00 per square foot for new architectural shingles, we are looking at a total cost of about $10,000 (install new shingles) + $3,000 (tear off and remove the old roof) + $2,400 (reflash skylights) = $15,400. This figure includes the cost of a building permit, dumpster and haul-away, all the building materials and supplies (new underlayment, etc. starter shingles, new drip-edge flashing, one chimney flashing, ridgevent, minor deck repairs, etc.) and at least a 5-year warranty from the installer. Now, you may need to subtract a couple of thousands dollars if you live in a low cost of living area or add a few grands if you live in an expensive area.
If you go with metal, your costs would be as follows: Install a new metal roof at a base cost of $20,000 ($10.00 * 2,000 sq.ft.) + $3,000 (tear off and haul away) + $4,000 (to professionally reflash around all skylights) = $27,000. Subtract a few thousands for a low cost of living area or add a few grands if you are based in an expensive real estate market.
Hello,
We have a 3-story home in San Francisco and are looking to get a sealant coating (liquid roof coating) to be applied to the roof and parapet walls. It is for a flat roof made of modified bitumen with 3 skylights.
The quote for 17 squares came to $10,200 which includes pressure washing, primer, silicone coating, and application of seam sealer + fabric on roof jacks and flashings. There is no easy access to the roof, with the most direct way from the second floor deck, and then up another 35 feet or so to the top. What are your thoughts on this job? Thank you!
Hi Marissa,
For a 17 squares roof priced at $10,200, the silicone roof coating is priced at $600 per square. San Francisco is an expensive market for roofing and remodeling work. Elsewhere in the country, such a job could be priced between $3.50 and $5.00 per square foot or $350 to $500 per square.
Are you getting any warranty for the job? How many layers of silicone coating will be applied? Lastly, what is the brand of the coating you will be getting?
If you are getting a true 10-year warranty on the installation, meaning the installer will stand behind the quality of the job, then the price may be justified given the difficulty of access to the roof and that you are located in an expensive market.
We only have an 810 square foot single story home and a 75 square foot simple, no frills garage. We are getting bids that are in the $15,000 to $20,000 range. One quote was for $9,000 which didn’t include a lot of things!
Either the contractors are up-pricing small homes to compensate for the job size or the roofing costs in our area are much higher than the average across the US.
Hi Ellen,
Yes, you are correct in guessing that contractors will generally charge more per sq. ft. for re-roofing jobs on smaller homes, partly because the prep and setup work can take just as much time as a larger job.
Given how high the quotes you are seeing are, I’m assuming your home is located in a high cost of living area such as Boston, NYC, Washington DC, Maryland, Northern Virginia, Seattle, Portland OR, San Francisco, Los Angeles, San Diego, Miami, and/or a similarly-expensive coastal city.
I am also guessing the old roof needs to be torn off and removed, which raises the total cost of the job.
Does your roof have significant slope, skylights or any other nuances to help explain the high quotes you’ve received?
Word of advice on dealing with high estimates: Don’t be afraid to negotiate down the price. Ask for the actual roof square footage the contractor estimates and why they’re pricing the job the way they do.
Hello, We are in Lanham, MD and got an estimate from Nu Look Home Design for $11,300 for our home (1356 square feet including waste). 4:12 pitch. Includes $5 million insurance, prorated materials warranty (10 years 100%, 80% at year 11, diminishing 2% per year to 20%), lifetime labor warranty, first 5 boards free/additional boards $65 each, Rhino Roof, and Owens Corning Oakridge tiles (110 mph), new gutters and trim. Is this a good estimate?
Hi,
I am beginning the process of searching roofing products, contractors in my area. I am very appreciative of your outstanding information.
Based on what I’ve read, I’m strongly leaning toward the Owens Corning Duration Cool. As I am in the Panhandle in FL, hurricane prep, as well as solar impact and wear and tear from UV rays shining onto the shingles, is always an area to address. Based on the better warranty info, while the GAF Timberline shingles is a 2nd runner, if the price is workable, I will most likely go with the OC Duration Cool.
I appreciate the list of questions for contractors, the links to products and the overview on estimates of cost. In following your links, I also found qualified contractors for the products, access to warranty detail and more.
Looks like I’ll need 20 squares and now feel informed enough to be able to ask the right questions, and be able to compare contractors.
I’ve already reached out to one, a preferred contractor for the products, in business for 30 years, who was awarded Best of the Emerald Coast, 2018. While I certainly plan to compare contractors, and check more, certainly a great starting point! I found them following links that started with yours, and will use your recommended questions!
My very rough estimate is probably about $10,000 for 1,800 square foot, single story, moderate pitch, hip roof that already has clips, and needs full removal with secondary water resistance/water barrier.
Does that sound like I’m in the ballpark? Or should I give a little more cushion room on pricing? I do know I also need one area of subroofing replaced (had a leak from the flashing around the chimney).
Thank you again, very much.
Your site is, without a doubt, the Best I’ve found!
Pam
Hi Pam,
Thank you for the kind words. So, we are talking about $10,000 for a roughly 16 to 20 squares roof in Florida. This translates to roughly $500 to $625 per square installed. Based on the roof-specific info you provided, I would say you are in the ballpark.
Be sure to get a few estimates from trusted pros in your area, so you can ask questions and compare options.
I have an itemized quote for a 28 square single story roof including detached garage in Los Angeles, CA. The roof has various layers. Most areas have 2 layers. Some areas are up to 5 layers. Tear off quote is $4,300. New Materials is $5,800. Labor $5,400. Total $15,500. Is this about right for my area? Thanks.
Hi Nancy, at at approximately $5.50 per square for a new roof (assuming 30 year architectural shingles that meets LA County Building Code – CA Title 24) including the tear off and removal of two layers of old shingles on a single story home in Los Angeles, this seems like a fair quote.
Hi,
I’ve been quoted the following three prices for complete replacement of the roof on multi-family unit. Two of the contractors say the roof has 3 layers. The third contractor inspected the roof from the ground and did not mention additional layers. All quotes are for architectural shingles. Roof measurement = 29 squares.
Quote 1: $5,950 (any additional decking work $45 per sheet)
Quote 2: $8,800 (includes additional cost for removal of additional layers+2 sheets decking if needed)
Quote 3: $9,975 (includes additional cost for removal of additional layers+2 sheets decking if needed)
Property is in Chattanooga, TN. Does this range seem reasonable? I thought $9,975 was on the high side. So, $8,800 seemed more reasonable until I received the $5,950 bid. All companies have good reviews.
$5,950 quote was an Angie’s List vendor. The middle quote was the most transparent as far as itemizing each line item. I just don’t want to be taken advantage of, but also understand you get what you pay for.
Your thoughts?
Hi Tee,
The last quote for $5,950 seems way too low, especially for a multi-family/multi-story house and a roof with multiple layers of shingles. It’s not an easy job to remove and dispose of three layers of old shingles! The first layer is probably stock to the deck.
Does the lowest quote include the removal and disposal of the old shingles by any chance? How about workmanship warranty and permit fees? Are there any dormers and valleys on the roof or is this a simple gable? Also, how many stories high is the house?
The only way the last quote would seem to make any sense would be for an over-the-top installation with no tear-off/disposal of the old roof.
The second quote seems more sensible given the potential complexity of the job. Be sure to provision for a situation where a whole deck would need to be covered with new plywood. How much extra would that cost?
Also make sure the installers are covered by the workers’ compensation insurance and ask about how the project manager will insure safety and quality on the job, especially on a multifamily house — those are very dangerous roofs to work on.
Hi,
Thanks for your response. This gives me more confirmation because I did go with the second quote. The contractor was much more transparent than either of the other two. The roof doesn’t have dormers, but does have a valley where the two units connect. Otherwise, it is a relatively simple roof. There is only one story to the units. Two sheets of decking are included and any additional are $25 per sheet. We discussed in detail all other aspects of the job (permitting, safety, etc.) I appreciate your response!
Given the tear off requirement for two layers of old shingles, the $8,800 quote makes a lot of sense. One more thing to check is the new roof warranty coverage including workmanship, the type of shingles you will be getting, underlayment, and roof accessories such as vents, etc. Since the middle quote is the most detailed, it’s probably your best bet.
Hi,
I have read your article along with some of the others. I am hoping to wait on putting on a roof until I can pay up front, but am unsure how much that amount is.
I have an older 2 story home in Dauphin county, PA (17110).
It is 39′ (eve) by 43′ (gable) for the main area which has a slope of 5. It has 2 layers on it, so it needs to be taken down and redone. Then there is a smaller roof, 39′ by 13′ (eve) which is very flat, perhaps a slope of 3 and only a single story, which currently has something that looks like tar paper over it. There are several (6) vent pipes on the big roof, but no skylights or anything, and the chimney is on the side of the house.
Judging from your information, I think that means I would need approx 20 squares of material for the larger roof. I was thinking of just the 30-year architectural shingles, so I am estimating a cost of around 10,000, yes?
Is there a reason you would not use the same roofing material on the flatter roof?
I don’t see any vent other than along the ridge line of the main roof, is that normal?
Gutters seem to be integral for roof health. I would love to do them myself, but am intimidated by the 2 story height. Do roofers ever replace gutters as well, or at least cover whats there and make sure it’s working properly?
Thanks so much for your help
Hi Hillarie,
So for a 2,000 square foot asphalt roof in PA in suburban or rural area, you can expect to pay an average of $8,000 to $10,000, unless there is additional work needed such as the tear off of more than two layers of old shingles, extensive deck repairs, new gutters like (you mentioned), etc. If the roof is very steep and inaccessible, the price could be higher,.
For a low sloped roof portion, you would need to use a membrane roof like EPDM rubber, PVC, or TPO membrane.
Hi,
I read in so many sources that a synthetic slate roof is just as quick and easy (or even easier) to install than an asphalt shingle roof, yet the installation estimates I see online for synthetic slate, both from vendors of synthetic slate and from independent sites, are way higher than for asphalt. Below is just one such assertion from HGTV:
“Transportation and installation of synthetic slate shingles is easier and less expensive than other roofing materials. Synthetic slate shingles are lighter than all asphalt shingles… During installation, synthetic slate shingles can easily be field-cut with a utility knife and nailed into place with standard roofing nails and a pneumatic nail gun.”
Is it true? And if so, why do installers charge so much? It’s not the price of the actual product that is deterring me from going with synthetic — it’s the ridiculous installation cost.
Steve
Hi Steve,
I understand your frustration and confusion regarding the cost of synthetic slate vs. asphalt shingles. There is a lot of misinformation and ill-informed writers contributing articles to sites such as HGTV. Oftentimes the writers for these sites fail to do their due diligence research, and instead, choose to rely on or cite other sites containing the same wrong information.
The truth is that synthetic slate and shakes are considered a premium product and often cost two times as much as asphalt shingles to install.
That said, expect to pay between $8.00 to $14.50 per sq. ft. installed for a synthetic slate roof. The actual cost may vary a lot, depending on your home’s location, project difficulty, the choice of product, and from contractor to contractor.
Hope this is helpful.
Good luck and do let us know how it goes!
So, we just got an estimate from Sears for $26,000.00 for a 2200 square foot roof. The roof is very old. It is a tar and gravel and the pitch is low. It is single story. The house is located in the SF Bay area. It will include all of the permits etc. and will include a 50 year warranty. It seems reasonable to me considering all they will have to remove and replace, but my son thinks it is too high. Your thoughts?
Hi Alice,
So, that’s approximately $1,200 per square for tar and gravel, which is an expensive system to install. Any time you work with a large provider like Sears rather than dealing directly with the contractor, you will have to pay a premium to Sears since they are essentially a middleman. The job itself will be done by a sub-contractor.
That said, Bay Area will be much pricier compared to the rest of the country.
Tar and Gravel is an old school flat roofing system and is rather expensive to install. Have you considered light-weight alternatives such as IB Roof 80 mil (commercial-grade) PVC membrane? It’s light-weight, energy-efficient, and long-lasting. It will probably cost you less with far better energy efficiency.
Hi There,
I just found out my grandmother paid $26,700 for a new roof on a double-wide manufactured home in Nevada. Having just paid 10K CAN (In Ontario) for a two story, 3,000 sq ft house, I feel like this is very expensive.
I am not sure of the particular roof size, but I think double-wides are fairly straightforward. The details on the addendum say 1 layer of tear-off, pitch of 3/12, tiger paw (2 layers), drip edge, metal valley, new code caps and pipe jacks, up to 6 squares OSB replacement. Timberline HD, Ridgeglass. Lifetime Golden Pledge warranty (hopefully it is transferable because she is 81). Also, a 10″ solar tube was installed in a closet. There are 4 existing skylights and in the notes it says “customer will buy 4 replacement skylights”. I am not sure what that means and my grandmother doesn’t know/remember.
Any help appreciated.
Hi Tiffany,
That does sound rather expensive for a manufactured home in Nevada. While the roof size is not known, assuming a 2,000 to 2,500 square foot roof, we would typically expect a price range of $10,000 to $15,000, depending on the particulars of the job. It sounds like your grandma is also responsible for purchasing four new skylights that will be installed during the roof replacement job. Assuming the extra work of $2,000 to $4,000 tops to install those. So, with new skylights, the quote should probably be around $12,000 to $17,000, not $26,700. If the roof is significantly larger say 3,500 square feet or 35 squares with multiple dormers and valleys, then the price would be higher, but it’s unlikely the roof is that big and complex given it’s a manufactured home in Nevada.
Just had a new roof installed on my home located in the suburbs of Portland, Oregon.
Got a few estimates ranging from $550.00 to over $800.00 per square. Ended up negotiating down to $500 per square and going with the company I liked. Total roof size was about 30 squares, so the total job cost was a bit shy of $15K.
I just got an estimate of $15,250 for 30 squares and thought that was high. I’m in New Orleans, LA and have a ranch. Guess this may be on point. I’ll get a few more estimates. Thanks for the insight.
Hi Queen,
So the fair price depends on the particulars of the job.
Is there a tear-off and removal of old shingles included as part of the quote?
What kind of shingles are being installed?
Are you being offered a comprehensive workmanship warranty?
Hi,
We’re so perplexed!!
My son owns a U-shaped home, 2200 sq. ft The roof slopes in and leaks slightly by the fireplace and is warping in other areas. No severe leaks.
But, 1964 build, and roof is in terrible shape. The home is built around an Olympic sized swimming pool, which fills in the U formation.
We want to build a mother-in-law-apartment, approximately 1,100 sq. ft. Above the garage and as far back as possible back into the U shape. Problem is the roof needs to be fixed first. Where do we start? Can both be done at the same?
I have no idea, how to even begin to find responsible, ethical people to listen to our needs and tell us if this dream will even be possible with our budget of $150,000-$175,000. Can you advise?
Hi Linda,
With the investment of $150,000-$175,000 this seems doable, but the key is to work with a residential architect who has a good level of understanding of the structural engineering challenges involved in building such an addition.
The architect should be able to help you understand what is feasible and how much it might cost.
The overall cost of such a project will depend upon where you are located, what general contractors typically charge for similar additions in your area, and how well the work is planned out.
Due to the complexity of such a project, I recommend speaking with a few residential architects and general contractors just so you can better understand the terrain before signing any contract and/or agreeing to any work.
Good Luck!
Hi,
I’ve found your site to be very useful in the process of estimating pricing for replacing a roof on my home. Since we have some slightly different modifications on our roof, I thought I’d ask if a quote we received seemed reasonable.
Roof dimensions with measurements including 1ft overhang. Moderate pitch (7)
House 2-story: 40×32
2-car attached garage 1 story: 30×26
Chimney in-between garage and house
Front porch: 40×9
Kitchen bump out, half hexagon: 14×6
Installation of new attic fan, all flashing replaced, removal of 1 layer, replacement on numerous sheets of plywood due to leakage (at least 8 sheets), Timberline lifetime shingles.
We live in MD but outside of metro/suburban areas. Quote was ~$18,000.
Thanks!
Hi, we got a price of $33,500 for a reboot of my mother’s house, which really includes two houses; a split level and a ranch that are joined in an L-shape with two garages. In all it is about 63 squares rounded up to 74 squares for waste.
The roof is low sloped and there are lots of valleys because it is all joined together. This price includes the tear off and disposal of old shingles, new GAF 50 year shingles, a Tyvek like underlayment, ice damn shields, silicone plumbing boots and installing a high quality ridge vent that does not exist right now.
The plywood underlayment would be replaced at $50 a sheet as needed. The project comes with a 50 transferable warranty (not prorated). The contractor has very good reviews. The house is just over the MD line in Pennsylvania. Do you think this is reasonable?
Hi Nell,
The pricing doesn’t seem too bad. It’s not great, but not completely horrible either. You get a rough price of $530 per square of new shingles installed. The potential waste is immaterial in this case, as we are basing the price per square on 63 squares for this roof replacement project. The material waste is reflective of multiple valleys, though.
That said, since this is such a large project, I would prefer the price of $400 to $450 per square, assuming it’s a single story house in Pennsylvania, close to MD. If you take the high end of that $400 to $450 price range, your resulting total ticket should be reduced by $5,150, which would be an equivalent of 15% discount. In my view, a discount of 10% to 20% is appropriate for this size and type of project.
Regarding the ridge vent, it’s only useful if you also have soffit vents cut-in. You probably already have those, but be sure to double check. Without the soffit vents that are free of obstruction, the ridge-vent is pointless. The fact that you don’t have the ridge vent brings into question whether the soffit vents are even there?
Note that it’s customary that a certain amount of plywood replacement would be included with the estimate. For instance, the contractor would cover up to two squares of plywood at no extra charge before the $50 per plywood sheet charge kicks in. Note that this would only be appropriate, if you are not already getting a 10% or larger discount on the quoted price.
Is there a workmanship warranty offer on this job? A 5 to 10 year workmanship warranty is expected on this type of job.
Hey,
Why would you think a 20% discount would be appropriate on a $30,000 job? That’s $6,000. No reputable contractor can absorb that cost.
Hi Mike,
So, here is the part of my response with respect to the percentage of a discount: “In my view, a discount of 10% to 20% is appropriate for this size and type of project.”
Notice that I said an appropriate discount could fall anywhere in the range of 10% to 20%. This is not the same as unequivocally stating that a contractor must offer 20% discount.
Now, here is a quick recap of the information provided about the project; we have an approximately 63 squares asphalt replacement for a low sloped roof in PA (close to MD border), plus additional charges of $50 per sheet of plywood, as needed.
Most residential roof replacement projects are about 20 squares, give or take. Normally, to replace 63 squares of asphalt shingles the contractor would need to complete two or three separate jobs. Each job would have its own separate set up costs including the cost of marketing and sales, pulling the building permits, allocating crews, etc.
So, with a larger-sized residential replacement project, such as this one, the contractor can enjoy significant economies of scale, namely not having to replicate the set-up costs three times, as you normally would on three smaller roof replacement projects. That’s where the ability to offer a 10% to 20% discount comes from.
What are some of the questions that should be asked when obtaining a roof estimate or determining what contractor to use?
Hi Bill,
The following questions should help you better vet the company providing an estimate:
1. How long has your company been in business?
You would normally like to see a company that has been around for at least 5 years, hopefully under the same name and state license number.
2. Do you have a general liability insurance and worker’s comp?
Can they show the proof?
3. Can I see your past jobs and talk to your past customers in the area?
4. Are you planning to use subcontractors on this job?
The right answer should normally be a NO, we don’t plan on using subs on this job.
You should also ask more details about who will be carrying out the actual work on your roof:
Will there be a project manager or point of contact present on the job every day? Can you talk to them ahead of time?
It can be helpful to make sure you are on the same page with the project manager as far as communication and expectations for the job.
5. How experienced is the crew? How long have they been working for you?
6. How will you handle the clean-up?
7. Does your crew need access to my house? The answer should normally be a no.
8. How will you ensure proper ventilation of my roof attic space?
9. How will you ensure that my roof deck is in sound shape?
10. How do you handle disputes?
11. Can you guarantee project cost, timelines (start dates/completion dates)? Are there any contingencies?
12. Can you explain the scope or work and warranty details?
Let me know if this is helpful?
Not the person you left this response for, but as someone who needs to get their roof replaced and has been feeling completely overwhelmed and slightly paralyzed with indecision about the best way to research and vet potential contractors, this is extremely helpful! Thank you so much. Knowing what kinds of questions to ask – and why – makes me feel much more calm and confident that we’re not going to get ripped off or end up with a lousy roof. Thank you!
Thank you for the kind words Jen. Best of luck with your roof replacement project!
Hello,
I got a quote from Long Roofing for $27,000 which includes replacing plywood, asphalt singles, install 3 new skylights, and drip edges, flashings around roof, 4 shutters replace, and other material under the shingles, with a 50 year transfer warranty, what do you think of pricing given that the roof is 31 squares? I live in Lanham, MD.
Hi Ricardo,
I am assuming this roof replacement quote is for a single-story home. All else being equal, the same roof replacement job on a two-story house would be roughly $1,500 more.
That said, a quote of $27,000 for a 31 squares roof, gives us roughly $870 per square, which is certainly quite a lot for an asphalt shingle replacement job.
Here is how I would break down the pricing for this job:
Tear off and haul away 31 squares of old shingles (up to two layers) and install plywood all over the old roof: $4,000 to $6,000
Install three new skylights: $3,000 (including the cost of skylights)
Install new shingles and flashing: $450 * 31 squares = $13,950
Miscellaneous: Permitting, dumpster, shutters, etc: $1000
Thus, we have $13,950 (new shingles) + $6,000 for tear off/disposal and new plywood + $3,000 for skylights + $1000 permitting and miscellaneous = 23,950. — This pricing assumes high end charges for removal and disposal of the old roof, based on two-story house, plus high-end job with cutting in new skylights. I also priced permitting and dumpster as an additional item, although it would normally be included with the job. Just trying to give the contractor the benefit of doubt based on the high cost of doing business in Maryland and around the Washington, DC area.
Hope this is helpful!
Hi,
My husband and I need serious advice!
Our roof square footage is only 1283 square feet and we have received roof replacement quotes for about $10K.
We do not have a steep slope at all and we do know there are two separate small spots that will need new board laid down as well. I just feel like 10K for not even 1300 square feet for a shingle roof is through the roof! haha 🙂
We started looking at corrugated metal roofing as it lasts much longer than asphalt and my husband is starting to think he will just put the roof on him self (very handy man). Not sure price wise if it would be worth us doing it on our own for the metal roof or to pay almost 10K for a shingle roof.
I am trying to do so much research, but it is hard as every website will state something different and they are not always accurate!!!! HELP please
Hi Candice,
Yes, $10,000 for a simple roof replacement job on a roughly 13 squares roof does seem a bit excessive, but there are still a few questions we need to answer to better understand the scope of work and to see if the overall pricing is fair given all the variables.
One of the big unknowns here is whether it’s a single-story or a two-story house? The same job would be roughly $1,000 more for a two-story house.
Next, do we know how many layers of old shingles will need to be removed and disposed of?
Two or more layers would be more costly to remove than a single layer of old shingles.
As far as additional items on the roof, are there any chimneys and skylights that will require flashing? Each skylight adds roughly $250 in additional flashing costs.
Lastly, where are you located? The same job in the Midwest or south will cost quite a bit less vs. a comparable roof replacement job in the north east or an expensive coastal area.
Assuming, you’ve taking all the pricing variables I outlined into account, have you tried to negotiate with the contractors to see if they would be willing to accept a lower quote?
Good Luck!
Hey guys! I just got quoted $22,500 for 50 year shingles on a 42 square roof. Zip code is 17340 in Pennsylvania.
The quote includes the entire job, clean up and all. Is this a fair price?
Hi Matt,
How many stories is the house and how many layers of old shingles will need to be removed?
How steep and cut-up is the roof? Also, are there any dormers, valleys, and skylights on the roof?
Assuming there are up to two layers of old shingles to be removed and disposed off, and a simple-to-moderate roof shape, we find the price to be acceptable, although it’s a bit on the high-end, given the local real-estate values.
Normally, we would expect a price of around $400 per square for mid-range architectural shingles for the type of project.
You were quoted $535 per square ($22,500 / 42 squares) for a 50-year shingles.
Not knowing specific details about the roof and the brand of shingles, it’s difficult to assess the fairness of the above quote. We don’t have any insight into how many stories and how cut-up the roof is and what the warranty is like.
Based on the lack of specific details regarding the house/roof and given the relatively low local real estate values, I would feel more comfortable with a quote that falls in between $400 to $450 per square or between $16,800 to $18,900 for the roof replacement, perhaps with a decent mid-range architectural shingles such as GAF Timberline AH or GAF Timberline HDZ (slightly better choice).
Tip: whenever you get a roof quote for a job of this size, there is no reason why you shouldn’t ask for say a 10% discount.
The roof is pretty cut up… I have a 2nd floor roof with a steep pitch… then I have the porch roof and a single story addition…. I also have a garage… the shingles are Owen Corning 50 year… and also the roof will need to be stripped…
Location is Atlanta, GA. Size is 31 square – low slope ranch w/ front deck having extra overhang and sides having extended overhangs (no dormers or other peaks/valleys).
We negotiated the price down to $22,142 (~ $714.25 per square) plus additional $4,578 for seamless gutters.
Specifics include tear off and removal of existing shingles, removal of 2 skylights, replacement of decking as needed, all new soffits and fascia, new/improved ventilation, capping all beams.
Looks like 2 layers of shingles need to be removed. Warranty is lifetime (materials and workmanship) transferable to next homeowner.
I realize lifetime is not really lifetime, but it would be for me; and assumes company stays in business (have been in business for 25+ years). They are licensed and insured and do not subcontract. They use GAF products.
Your thoughts?
Hi Ruth,
This sounds like a pretty straight forward job. We have a single story ranch with no peaks and valleys, tear off and removal of two layers of shingles, removal of two old skylights (assuming that plywood will be installed over the removed skylights, or will the new skylights be installed?).
The bottom line is that this is a pretty straight forward and a nicely-sized aka lucrative job!
My view is that the quote you’ve received and negotiated down is still too high given the job specifics.
That said, $600 per square would be a lot more appropriate for the area and given the overall size of the job. Contractors prefer simple and larger jobs, such as yours, because they can be completed in a relatively short amount of time, with a lot of upside in terms of contractor’s profit.
Personally, I wouldn’t pay a penny over $600 per square for this job. In fact, I would much prefer this roofing job to be priced at around $500 per square given the size of the job and profit potential for the contractor.
Good Luck!
We have a 2400 square foot single story house with a hipped roof (8 and 12 pitch) located in Cupertino, CA aka San Francisco Bay Area South.
The roof was calculated at 42 squares. One layer of old roofing material needs to be removed.
CertainTeed Landmark Pro shingles quoted at $34,000.
I am suffering a major sticker shock – what do you think?
So the sticker shock is probably justified in this case.
Granted this house is located at the heart of Silicone Valley where even average homes can sell for well over a million dollars, hence remodeling costs will be higher relative to the rest of the country.
That said, the project doesn’t sound too difficult, as it’s a single story house with a roof that is fairly typical, middle of the road hipped roof (8 and 12 pitch).
Assuming the measurements are correct, the roof is currently being priced at $800 per square. A more fair price for a high cost of living area such as the San Francisco Bay Area South, would be between $600 and $750 per square or between $25,000 and $31,000, based on the information provided.